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Out on the Town

Grant Hendrickson,
New York Editor
November 28, 2007
Food > La Esquina
   

You’re a sucker for the hush-hush, the underground, the quietly tucked away.

Unlisted numbers bring out the P.I. in you. Buried treasures haunt your dreams. And signless, covert doorways induce a Goonies-like thrill. Yes, you love anything that’s off the beaten path. 

Take La Esquina for instance; the Soho-Nolita eatery that to the average Joe looks like a retro diner. In reality, the whole facade is just a kitschy ruse for what lies behind the door marked "Employees Only." Behnd the sign, down some stairs and through the bowels of the kitchen is a gothic-like vault that serves as the Brassiere for La Esquina. Down below, the

eatery is small and while not overtly remarkable has a sort of Speakeasy feel that lends a “members only” cache. 

Food-wise, the menu strives for authenticity in both its variety and presentation. And, with a few pointers from Café Habana’s Richard Ampudia, it succeeds (for the most part). Your best bet for a starter course is the Ceviche or the avocado tortilla soup.  For the main event, opt for the snapper or their tangy slow-roasted citrus pork. And, for all you non-adventurous culinary types, there’s a mainstay of traditional and expected dishes including a decidedly unfussy plate of chicken tacos. When you go, make sure to also order up one of their Margaritas. With 70 top-shelf tequilas to choose from, you just might be inclined to have two or three...okay, six.

La Esquina, while it may not be new, it's definitely a noteworthy spot that's still relatively under wraps.

 

For more information visit:

La Esquina at 106 Kenmare St, New York or contact them at 646.613.7100


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